Ngangao Forest

This morning we completed our second group discussion with the farmers of Mwatate. We held the session in their community center conference room. The African time continues to amaze me. We were supposed to start the session at nine. The first person didn’t even show up until half past. By ten we had a total of four participants. We began the session at 10:30. Throughout the session more and more people came in. Some even entered at eleven. I couldn’t believe it. Sarah didn’t translate today during the session so I’m not really sure what exactly happened. From the few English words I caught the effects of climate change are very similar on these farmers as they were on yesterdays. I will find out exactly what was said next week when Sarah and I go through and she translates and I type the five hours of tape recording. Today we had time to do the timeline activity Sarah and I created. The activity seemed to be successful. Farmers remembered really far back of years of droughts and floods. They also remember when certain insects overtook their crops. I was impressed with their memories. Hopefully this information collected will help in our analysis as well. Something I found interesting about today’s session was how each of the farmers seemed to have a cell phone. The farmers having a cell phone showed me the importance of technology to people these days. Most of the farmers probably lived in the small houses or shacks we pass when driving along the road, but they still have a cell phone.

After the session ended and we had distributed the money, we went to check on the weather station outside. I’m not sure what exactly was wrong with this one, but something held the guys up for at least an hour. The African sun finally showed itself then, making it a very warm wait. Our plan was to go on a hike through the forest that afternoon. In Kenya, one has to pay to use the national parks. This seems kind of counter-productive to me. Wouldn’t they want to try to encourage kids to see the natural world around them so they care more and preserve it? Of course for foreigners the price is spiked. When we went to the station to pay, the lady made sure I knew this—about five times. It came to point where I flatly stated, “I know I’m a foreigner and have to pay extra.” Sarah and I walked out laughing. After purchasing our tickets into the forest, we went to change while Tino checked on another weather station. Then he picked us up and the ride to the forest was rocky, as it always seems to be in the village.

Since Tino wanted to go and check on some more automatic weather stations, a man who works at the place we are staying took us into the forest. Before we were allowed in, they made us sign a visitors’ book. In the column for why we were visiting Sarah put bird watching. I was confused but did the same. I asked her once we left why we put that. She said that is what our pass was for, so is hiking not actually allowed? I’m still confused on the matter. Funny thing is, I don’t think we spotted or searched for a single bird on our hike. While waiting for the man to finish the introductions, monkeys swung from the trees above our heads. I was so fascinated with this that I had to explain to Sarah that monkeys are only found in zoos in the States. Things I probably see daily in the States may only be found in zoos here. As a child, I never imagined monkeys in the wild, let alone swinging over my head. I tried to get a picture but of course they were too smart and too fast.

We began our hike on a dirt road and soon veered into the forest. Our guide led the way at a speedy pace; he obviously knew where he was going. After ducking around branches and climbing over logs we approached “The Mother Tree”. The tree was huge. The guide explained how once when he took a large group through the forest, they found it took eight people holding hands to circle around it. Sarah and I carved our names into its base. Guessing the tree has been around for hundreds of years, hopefully my name will last hundreds more to come. Our next stop was at another large tree. This one had a split base which we could climb through. Once again the tree was huge and kind of cool looking. Before long we headed up the trail to a cliff. The hike was hard and our guide took the path fast. At one point Sarah just stopped to take a break. While she stopped I noticed our guide was wearing dress shoes and dress slacks. Here I was, in my hiking boots and athletic pants, testing my athletic ability and this guy made it seem easy as ever. Must be the Kenyan athleticism or something. Eventually we made it to the top cliff and the view from the top was worth the long climb. The air was crisp and fresh. The valley below looked so peaceful. We could hear cows mooing in the distance. Sarah asked me if I had seen a hut before. I told her not a real one people live in. We then got into a conversation about the houses people lived in below. She told me how they were “modern”. These “modern” houses consisted of tin shacks. I wonder what kind of house I live in would be considered as. As sad and depressing I find the view of the houses some people live in in third-world countries, I think I have come to a conclusion that no matter what type of house these people live in, their quality of life and happiness is not determined by their living conditions. Tino had asked us to meet him on the road once we were through. This was about another kilometer of hiking. Little did we know, it would be much more than a kilometer.

We got to the junction we planned to meet him back at right on time. We decided a drink would be nice after our long hike and bought some sodas. As I was walking around the area drinking my drink, I turned around to a rooster literally at my feet. Animals, especially domestic ones, run freely in Kenya. A rooster is not uncommon to find roaming around. Neither are the cows passing through the roads nor the goats grazing along our paths. We called Tino to figure out where he was. He had yet to leave the automatic weather station and was at least an hour away. Not wanting to wait, we began our long hike back to the Research Center.

I heard I would be able to see Mount Kilimanjaro from Taita. Having a close friend of mine climbing the mountain this week, I was really eager to spot it. I asked the guide multiple times throughout the day where it was. He would always respond that the cloud cover was too heavy to see it. Finally on our walk home as the sun set, Mount Kilimanjaro was revealed. I felt like a native walking back. Many of the inhabitants make longer journeys than I was, daily. We passed multiple kids and families walking alongside the road like us. I had to take a picture. Not because I wanted it as a keepsake of the scenes of kids walking; I know the sights of seeing small children on the side of the road will be with me forever. But because I honestly don’t think people understand that small children really do walk all the way from getting water to their homes. I asked the children to take a picture to educate others. Instead of just taking the picture, I also gave the three kids some money to share. Maybe it will provide them a small treat they can barely ever afford. I found some footprints in the dirt on the path I was walking—just another reminder of the poverty surrounding me.

Soon darkness fell and we had been hiking for at least an hour. If the bumps in the road weren’t felt while driving they became evident when walking. None of us could see where we were stepping. I found myself hoping I was not stepping in anything bad or into a trench with each step. There were a few time I tripped over a rock or landed hard on my feet due to uneven surface, but we were making our way. The adventure was actually kind of fun. With less than 400 meters to the Research Center, Tino pulled up next to us. As Sarah got in, I refused. I was going to finish this hour and a half hike back by foot with our guide. The sauna tonight never felt so good.